Stash for survival
Notes from the studio by Erika and Arabella
We have long believed that our humble craft holds many of the answers to a more sustainable fashion future, and that knitters wield more power with our two sticks and length of continuous thread than we are usually given credit for. In fact, we would go as far as to say that knitting is a post-apocalyptic skill and one that is AI-proof too. We spend a lot of our studio time researching the bigger picture of textiles – from fibres to manufacturing and observing the micro trends posted on social media and put into practice within knitting circles. And what is abundantly clear is that where fashion is concerned a mindset shift is needed - from reckless over-consumption to a more thoughtful curation of our wearable wardrobes.
Fashion has been identified as the third most polluting industry after fuel & energy and agriculture & food. As an industry it produces about 10% of our global annual carbon footprint – more than all international flights and maritime shipping combined! And greenhouse gas emissions are not the only problem with the fashion sector, it also consumes enough water to quench the thirst of five million people every year and creates millions of tons of plastic and other waste that pollute our air and oceans. The solution is straightforward: move away from fast fashion, buy fewer but better-quality pieces of clothing, and opt for sustainable brands that disclose their environmental impact transparently and act to reduce it. Even better, make it yourself! We as crafters are a powerful part of this way forward – with the most basic of tools we have the ability to create infinite possibilities.
The influential trend forecaster Li Edelkoort has espoused the importance of farming in the textiles of the future and as regenerative agriculture becomes a more mainstream topic, the connection between our environment and all aspects of our daily lives becomes increasingly apparent. We are inextricably linked to the wider ecosystem, and we ignore the decline of bees and other pollinators whilst still demanding a fresh cotton tee, at our peril. As textile enthusiasts we are in the privileged position of being more connected to the fibres that make our clothes by virtue of our craft, with conversations about the pros and cons of a particular sheep breed’s wool or how we adapt to working with plant-based fibres a norm amongst fellow makers. It is our duty then to share this knowledge with non-knitting friends and in doing so to unravel the densely linked supply chains that keep the ready-to-wear fashion industry shrouded in mystery. There is an education gap in what most people know about how clothes are made, where, by whom, and from what. Understanding this is key to challenging the perception of value, so it is vital that we are accurately informed about the resources that it takes to make something – from field to finished garment, via many skilled hands.
But fear not, it doesn’t need to be activism on a grand scale. We all have the ability to make choices and to support our local communities. By sharing our hand skills and passing them on we can equip our peers and younger generations with the basic techniques that will enable them to enjoy not only the essential textiles but fun and innovative fashion too. For it’s more than just fabric to cover our modesty – it’s self-expression, memory, tradition and social identity. But we must disentangle shopping for new from how we express ourselves. Doing something manual can improve our attention, calm racing thoughts and provide a sense of accomplishment. So, this is a holistic lifestyle approach for slowing down the processes and adding value and appreciation to the growing, making, wearing, sharing and repairing of clothes which has not only a positive environmental impact, but huge benefits on our own well-being too. That stash under the bed is in fact essential survivalist prep, and we are armed (with knitting needles) and ready (with cast on techniques) for any eventuality. Pass it on.
This piece was first published as a column in Knitting Magazine Issue 260.